Moisturizing Ingredients

Moisturizing Ingredients work by a variety of different mechanisms in the skin.

One way is to operate as a moister trap. An example of this would be Vaseline or Petroleum, which enter the upper outer layers of the stratum corneum preventing increased water loss. Then, with the help of this protective barrier, the skin is able to reduce water loss. There is a possibility that Petrolatum can cause acne and there is a belief that it is the frequency of the application and the extent of rubbing the skin with Petrolatum that is likely to cause acne, but it is probably best to avoid using it on the face. Acne may also be more likely to occur if Petrolatum is applied and then covered under a headband or a cap.

Moisturisers can also function as humectants, ie by actually attracting water into the stratum corneum to hydrate the skin. Examples of this are glycerin and sodium hyaluronate, both of which are excellent moisturising ingredients.

There are, in addition, ‘natural’ moisturising factors. These contain a mixture of different amino acids and salts designed to mimic the natural composition of the stratum corneum. If the skin is lacking in natural moisturisers, it will certainly become cracked and dry, so these, or a chemical called sodium PCA, may be added to some products to prevent this from happening.

Urea is a chemical moisturising ingredient that comes with its own benefits and drawbacks. On the positive side, it helps to create a more even stratum corneum by smoothing out the skin’s surface. However, on the downside, being an acid means that urea can both sting and irritate and also smell rather unpleasant.

Fruity Acids
Fruit Acids (or alpha-hydroxy acids – AHAs – which include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid and tartaric acid) are also known as hydroxyl acids and have been known since ancient times to be beneficial in improving the smoothness and general feel of the skin. The ancient Egyptians would collect grape seed remains containing tartaric acid from the bottom of their wine-fermenting vessels and apply them to their skin to make it smooth and glowing.

In modern times, the most commonly used fruit acid is glycolic acid. In the USA it is allowed in non-prescription creams up to 5 percent concentrations while higher concentrations are available, they need to be dispensed by a physician. These regulations have not been adopted in Europe or elsewhere although perhaps they ought to be, as such creams can cause redness or irritation in people with problems such as sensitive skin or eczema, for example. In general, however, glycolic acid-containing lotions or creams will help to promote a smoother, healthier-looking skin.

Panthenol
Panthenol, or vitamin B5, is used in a variety of skin and hair products including shampoos, conditioners and moisturizers. It is very useful as a humectant, attracting moisture into hair and skin. It smoothes the surface of the skin and hair and has also been shown to help in wound healing. It is sometimes used in a form known as calcium pantothenate (e.g. Neutrogena Healthy Defence moisturiser).

Niacinamide (Nicotinamide) – a new use for an old chemical
This is a chemical that has been shown to have some interesting and important actions on the skin. One of these is to reduce redness and inflammation of the skin. In experiments on animal skin, it has been seen to reduce skin ageing that is a result of artificial sunlight as well as reducing the risk of skin cancer. It is not yet known whether this is also the case in humans, but it is nevertheless being used in ‘anti aging wrinkle creams and moisturizers such as Olay Total Effects Anti-aging Complex. Another recently discovered valuable property is it’s ability to improve acne. In both the UK and the USA it is used in a prescription gel at a concentration of 4 percent (Nicam gel). Whether or not it has any anti-acne potential at lower strengths (as it is found in non-prescription preparations) is not known.

Lipids
Lipids are fats that form a natural part of the skin’s barrier. The most important lipids in the skin are ceramides, sphingolipds, sterols and free fatty acids. All of these are essential for the skin barrier to function. Some moisturisers contain a mixture of these skin barrier lipids or chemical variants of them, sometimes known as ceramides. Often they are combined with humectants such as glycerine to produce an effective moisturiser such as Vaseline Intensive Care.